Twenty years ago I wrote a book about my wanderings in the Arab world called The riddle of hiking (1999). The image of a camel caravan meandering in and out of a few exposed desert bushes helped set the writing in motion. The sound of the Muezzin calling for prayer always made me stop. Here was a sound, a voice that makes things stand still, the city, the mosque, the sculpture, all the while the sound receded. The muezzin will not stay. Muezzins. . .

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